Ordered some screws for inserts I already have, wasteboard is about .75 inches, 1.5 inches body thickness, and 1.85-2 inches for uncut body. Make two cuts for bevel and length. Wait for these to get in to measure the countersink holes. Also make sure it deep enough to clear the first surfacing cut. The inserts should help repeatability. The hammer video just uses these screws first, then cuts the hole for the dowels in the wood body. Removes body and then drill holes for the dowels in the wasteboard.
Developing my cam strategies, repeatability and accuracy is main goal.
I may have center droop on my machine. I may have to remove legs and add some wood underneath to stabilize it better. Even with the HDZ, if my board isn’t stable, all cuts will be fuckt.
Work holding/ Jigs I ordered a bunch of dowels, I have some metal ones 10mm x 40mm. My goal is accuracy and repeatability. Will make a neck jig, the video below has a jig for the fretboard, but not the headstock. I can make one for the headstock also to be safe. Last thing I want to do is waste wood.
Neck Pocket Neck pocket needs to be perfect. When working support for cnc company, some users had neck pocket issues. Cutting one side of the machine way not be as accurate on another part. Maybe try cutting on same axis and in same region I’m cutting the body pocket from may help. Need to run tests in both axes. The shapeoko is belt driven in x and y axes. I’ve already adjusted the CNC steps per axis on machine. Test Test Test.
OUTLINE- more details added later BODY– hard ash 20x14x1.85″ Work holding- wood metal dowels, screws, may develop a way to use threaded inserts for repeatability 1. Top Body cavity 1.25 doc 2 . Fillet bottom of this cavity with ball nose 3. Neck pocket 4. Top fillet edge, ball nose 5. Flip, have 10mm metal dowels and 6/8/10 x 40mm dowels 6. Back pocket 1.2 doc 7. Back fillet edge ball nose 8. Cutout, may need new router bit for this, plunge bit may not work 9. Bridge post holes, PG holes, ordered some.
NECK/FRETBOARD maple neck 1x4x30 Richlite 20″ x 2.75″ x 0.3125″ (508 x 70 x 8mm) 1. Truss rod cavity 2. Holes for neck holding 3. Glue on fretboard 4. Cut holes for inlay 5. Top neck headstock profile 6. Fret slots before or after radiusing? 7. Fretboard radius 8. Flip, need fretboard jig 9. Neck profile, back of headstock 10. Cut out
PICKGUARD/BACKPLATE, acrylic, should buy acrylic bit 1. Pickguard cutouts 2. PG screws 3. Custom texturing model? 4. Outline cut
TO DO LIST
Start using meshcam to generate toolpaths and for tests.
Machine rigidity tests on Pine, check accuracy, test cuts for pocket, neck ferrules, tuner holes, countersink M6 screws, flat surfacing. Check droop, fix if an issue.
Cut out preamp pcb board. Test if it works.
If works, model 2nd output jack on pickguard.
Model the work holding dowels, The video use combination of both dowel and screws. Issues withrepeatability using the same holes for dowel on MDF may alter the accuracy over time.
Research threaded inserts for repeatability
Model rounded bottom cavity on guitar body, should add resonance for the piezo pickup. Placement of piezo on bass side, neck cavity caused too much fret noise.
Need some longer depth of cut bits for last body cut of 1.7inch thickness. My quarter inch downcuts only go down 3/4″. Buy acrylic bits from toolstoday.
Saving xyz, can just set x and y off fast jog points, some other commands I can use, issue might proximity switches not being precise every time. Something I need to test multiple times. Belt stretch can happen also, Hopefully not between parts. Also something I need to test. https://community.carbide3d.com/t/store-recall-x-y-zero-points/22859
