Redid fretboard and frets for 16″ radius, forgot I don’t have a fret clamp for 16.66″ lol. I could hammer them in, but would rather clamp them in and make them perfect. Less fret levelling later if it is close to perfect.
Talked highline guitars about radiusing fretslots. Brought up the question about sanding fretboard then slotting the radiused frets. He said it was way too much for his workflow. I totally understand. His method a bit different than the hammer bass method. He separates all the parts.
Which brings up the other issue of fretslots. A delicate matter in so many ways. The cutters for the slots are so thin and easily break. Much trial and error, and a rigid machine needed. Also the way it is programmed.
The easel pro method incorporates 2D slots and cut them out like a cutout. Can be done this way in Carbide Create also. Carbide Create does not do ramping like Easel pro. It has more options for the ramping angle. I feel it is important because of how fragile the cutters are. I could import more toolpaths into easel but, doesn’t create the shapeoko gcode with the m6 toolchanges. Carbide Motion can import it, but I might opening another can of worms.
Chris also mentioned that meshcam isn’t possible for fretslots. I would have to create 3d pockets unlike just the 2D line in easel pro/carbide create. Of course that may create issues making the slots too wide. I will experiment to see how it cuts. I can check the results in Camotics. Also got .5 ball cutter for neck. Chris say it will cut smoother than quarter inch ones.

Also the fret slot endmills he uses
https://ebay.to/3yqHaYx (10) – #73 (.0240″) 2 FLUTE MICRO CARBIDE ENDMILLS – LONG FLUTE 1600.0240.120B1

Running at
0.024 2 flute upcut, 20 in /min, 15 in/min, Depth per pass .01in 20,000 rpm, climb cut, 20 degree ramp depth of cut .125″ (should match overall depth of tang of fret) measure fretwire, mine says .058 doc, but I’m trying radius the fret slots, he is cut it straight and gluing the frets in to fill the gap.

Meshcam tests roughing pass with .5 inch plunger cutter and bottom picture with rough and finishing with .25″ ballmill. Decent results, can also camotics to see the cutter in action. That small stepover really helps smooth it out. Hopefully that .5″ ball cutter I ordered works good for fretboard so I’m not stressing the same cutters. Tomorrow I should remodel the strings recheck neck pocket depth and then try and model some fret slots to test in meshcam to see if how the toolpaths generated toolpaths flow at. Be a lifesaver not having to glue in the frets.